Friday, December 29, 2006

Optimizing Guitar Playability

Optimizing Guitar Playability

Playing guitar is a highly personal experience. Every player has different needs, and that is why setting up your new guitar becomes a matter of personal taste. We generally recommend taking your new ax to a qualified luthier for a proper set-up. Although most guitars play great right out of the box, some need just a little bit of tweaking to make them really perform.

Ultimately what you are trying to achieve is:
1. Good Action (the least possible distance between the string and the frets without buzzing or rattling of the string against the fret)
2. Balanced, even, electrical output on each string in all pickup positions
3. Smooth, accurate tuning action and the ability to stay in tune after bending a note or using the tremolo
4. Last, but certainly not least, killer tone!

Keep in mind though, that some of these goals are mutually incompatible. For instance, really light strings and really low action don't allow a guitar to sustain or sound fat, compared to the same guitar with heavier strings and higher action. Finding that optimal playing "zone" is sometimes a matter of compromise. Knowing that, here are some tips that can help you achieve guitar nirvana.

Strings:

Experimenting with different brands is great, but once you a find a brand and gauge you like, stick with it. Your guitar will thank you for it. Constantly changing string gauges usually involves adjustments to the neck, which can be a time-consuming pain, and wouldn't you rather be playing?

Wiping your strings down with a clean cloth after playing can extend their life and your wallet.

If you are breaking a lot of strings at the bridge, the most likely cause is burrs that develop on the string saddles. A light sanding and polishing is all that is needed to smooth these out. Take your guitar to a luthier if you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself.

Tuners:

I can't say enough good things about Sperzel locking tuners. They are worth their weight in gold. While I wouldn't recommend installing them on a vintage Strat; for a new, out-of-the-box guitar they work wonders. They offer rock solid tuning, and actually improve sustain by adding more mass to the headstock.

If you're going with stock tuners, make sure all screws are snug but not too tight. If it still feels sloppy or will not hold the pitch, replace them.

Pickups:

There is a phenomenon regarding guitar pickups called "magnetic interference." This is where the magnetic field generated by the pickup actually impedes the vibration of the string, causing a dull, lifeless sound. Generally you want to get the pickups close enough for good output, but not so close as to choke the string. Fender recommends around 5/64" clearance from the top of the pole piece to the bottom of the string fretted at the last fret. You can check this with automotive type feeler gauges.

Action:

This is going to be a general recommendation which may not apply to everyone's playing style. First, check the relief, or amount of bow in the neck. Put a capo at the first fret then hold down the 6th string at the last fret. Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the string and the 8th fret. Factory spec for Strats and clones should be around .010" Next, check the bridge saddle height.

Factory spec at the 17th fret should be 5/65" for strings 1-4, 3/32" for strings 5-6. Another really cool trick is to adjust the saddles to follow the radius of the fingerboard, meaning the middle string saddles are higher than the outside saddles. This allows the strings to follow the natural curve of the fingerboard and makes for a smoother playing neck.

These are just a few recommendations for getting the most out of your guitar. Again, if you don't feel comfortable with doing this yourself, take it to your favorite luthier. Watch and learn, and pretty soon you'll be doing it yourself. Also, if you're a do-it-yourself kind of person, pick up a copy of the "Guitar Player's Repair Guide." It too is worth its weight in gold.

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