Tuesday, September 05, 2006

What is the difference between Rosewood and Maple wood?




Rosewood is an exotic deep red wood with even, tight grain. It has a warm, smooth, dark tone and is often used for the back and sides of acoustic guitars, and on the necks of both acoustic and electric guitars.

Maple is a lighter wood with a variety of grains from straight and tight to beautifully figured. While occasionally used on acoustic guitars, is more often seen on the neck and body of electric guitars. It has a bright, crisp tone.

How do I get rid of fret buzz?




Look to the strings first. You may need to change them.

Are they accumulating a film? (You may need to look on the underside to see all the dirt you have on them.) There are a handful of products designed to extend the life of your strings, but if you want to go the economy route, simply wiping them down with a slightly damp cloth will be better than nothing.

Do you see dirt and grime building up on the fret board? (Minor, but if you're cleaning for grime, you might as well clean this surface during strings changes.) You may want to clean this using a slightly damp cloth or a good guitar cleaner. Some people recommend using the finest grade of steel wool to abrade extra tough dirt off your fret board. I haven't had to go this far yet, and would urge caution to go easy on the elbow grease as to not scratch the finish on the wood.

Long sweat and dirt buildup can eventually damage glue joints and warp your instrument (this would be after a long period of exposure without any maintenance). I'm by no means an avid "guitar-polishing guy" but the occasional cleaning of the fret board will extend its life.

If this doesn't fix your problem, the solution may require the expertise of an experienced technician. There are some things you should do to pinpoint the location of your buzz, but I'd never recommend someone grab their tools and try to adjust a guitar on their own. Learn from someone with experience and your guitar won't become a field casualty.

Check to see if the buzz is consistent across the length of the neck (from open strings to the frets with small spacing towards the body of the instrument).

Pick each string without fretting any notes.

Fret each string at the first fret and move towards the body. You may not need to successively fret each position, but if you're compulsive about your instrument, then you can check each fret.

Make a note as to where the buzz appears and where is goes away. If the buzz stays from the open strings and doesn't go away even when you're fretting the highest pitched frets, the problem is likely in your bridge/saddle assembly. Are there any loose parts? You may need to have a technician work on this area. See if they'll let you view the process. I've gleaned a lot of maintenance knowledge by being present and asking simple question while someone worked on my instruments. (Don't get in the way, technicians will tolerate your presence and questions, if they aren't annoyed by your presence.)

If you pinpoint the buzzing to the section of your neck closer to the body:

You may need to have your strings saddles adjusted up so they will be farther away from the first frets they come across. If you do this yourself, try to make your adjustments in slight increments so you don't raise your action more than you need to. If the height of the saddle won't compensate enough, a truss rod adjustment is probably needed (see below).

There may be a fret that needs to be sanded slightly to eliminate an inconsistent span. Don't make this adjustment yourself. If you go too far, the mutilated fret will become permanently sharp in pitch.

If the buzzing is closer to the middle of the neck or towards the nut:

Inserting a slight shim under the nut can raise the strings high enough to eliminate the strings' unwelcome contact with the frets. This might be difficult if you have a glued in nut, but those of you who put up with the locking variety can easily take the nut off and insert a small piece of paper or foil under the nut. Remember to take it in increments; it's hard to play those neoclassical licks with high action.

Your neck may need to have the truss rod adjusted. The truss rod is a rod of metal that runs the length of your guitar's neck. By turning it to the left or right, you cause the wood to bow in or out. Of all the adjustments mentioned, this is the most dangerous and should definitely be handled by a technician. If you turn the rod too far (even a fraction of a turn), you can splinter the neck. Here is a step to watch and learn. Minute adjustments can make a big difference in the bow of the neck.

Some adjustments may necessitate other adjustments to preserve the action. Cleaning the neck and getting a new set of strings might solve your problems. If you're a strummer and using light strings, maybe you should raise the action and/or move up to a heavier gauge of string. Don't be afraid to take your instrument to a technician. You can learn quite a bit for future maintenance.

How do I get rid of fret buzz?




Look to the strings first. You may need to change them.

Are they accumulating a film? (You may need to look on the underside to see all the dirt you have on them.) There are a handful of products designed to extend the life of your strings, but if you want to go the economy route, simply wiping them down with a slightly damp cloth will be better than nothing.

Do you see dirt and grime building up on the fret board? (Minor, but if you're cleaning for grime, you might as well clean this surface during strings changes.) You may want to clean this using a slightly damp cloth or a good guitar cleaner. Some people recommend using the finest grade of steel wool to abrade extra tough dirt off your fret board. I haven't had to go this far yet, and would urge caution to go easy on the elbow grease as to not scratch the finish on the wood.

Long sweat and dirt buildup can eventually damage glue joints and warp your instrument (this would be after a long period of exposure without any maintenance). I'm by no means an avid "guitar-polishing guy" but the occasional cleaning of the fret board will extend its life.

If this doesn't fix your problem, the solution may require the expertise of an experienced technician. There are some things you should do to pinpoint the location of your buzz, but I'd never recommend someone grab their tools and try to adjust a guitar on their own. Learn from someone with experience and your guitar won't become a field casualty.

Check to see if the buzz is consistent across the length of the neck (from open strings to the frets with small spacing towards the body of the instrument).

Pick each string without fretting any notes.

Fret each string at the first fret and move towards the body. You may not need to successively fret each position, but if you're compulsive about your instrument, then you can check each fret.

Make a note as to where the buzz appears and where is goes away. If the buzz stays from the open strings and doesn't go away even when you're fretting the highest pitched frets, the problem is likely in your bridge/saddle assembly. Are there any loose parts? You may need to have a technician work on this area. See if they'll let you view the process. I've gleaned a lot of maintenance knowledge by being present and asking simple question while someone worked on my instruments. (Don't get in the way, technicians will tolerate your presence and questions, if they aren't annoyed by your presence.)

If you pinpoint the buzzing to the section of your neck closer to the body:

You may need to have your strings saddles adjusted up so they will be farther away from the first frets they come across. If you do this yourself, try to make your adjustments in slight increments so you don't raise your action more than you need to. If the height of the saddle won't compensate enough, a truss rod adjustment is probably needed (see below).

There may be a fret that needs to be sanded slightly to eliminate an inconsistent span. Don't make this adjustment yourself. If you go too far, the mutilated fret will become permanently sharp in pitch.

If the buzzing is closer to the middle of the neck or towards the nut:

Inserting a slight shim under the nut can raise the strings high enough to eliminate the strings' unwelcome contact with the frets. This might be difficult if you have a glued in nut, but those of you who put up with the locking variety can easily take the nut off and insert a small piece of paper or foil under the nut. Remember to take it in increments; it's hard to play those neoclassical licks with high action.

Your neck may need to have the truss rod adjusted. The truss rod is a rod of metal that runs the length of your guitar's neck. By turning it to the left or right, you cause the wood to bow in or out. Of all the adjustments mentioned, this is the most dangerous and should definitely be handled by a technician. If you turn the rod too far (even a fraction of a turn), you can splinter the neck. Here is a step to watch and learn. Minute adjustments can make a big difference in the bow of the neck.

Some adjustments may necessitate other adjustments to preserve the action. Cleaning the neck and getting a new set of strings might solve your problems. If you're a strummer and using light strings, maybe you should raise the action and/or move up to a heavier gauge of string. Don't be afraid to take your instrument to a technician. You can learn quite a bit for future maintenance.

Rogue RG120R 120 Watt 2x12 Guitar Combo with Reverb


Rogue RG120R 120 Watt 2x12 Guitar Combo with Reverb


Rogue RG120R 120 Watt 2x12 Guitar Combo with Reverb


Price: $179.99
List Price: $499.00

Rogue RG120R 120 Watt 2x12 Guitar Combo with Reverb


Rogue RG120R 120 Watt 2x12 Guitar Combo with Reverb


Rogue RG120R 120 Watt 2x12 Guitar Combo with Reverb


Price: $179.99
List Price: $499.00

Line 6 Spider II 212 Combo


Line 6 Spider II 212 Combo


Line 6 Spider II 212 Combo



Price: $399.99
List Price: $699.99

Line 6 Spider II 212 Combo


Line 6 Spider II 212 Combo


Line 6 Spider II 212 Combo



Price: $399.99
List Price: $699.99

Line 6 Spider II 210 Combo


Line 6 Spider II 210 Combo


Line 6 Spider II 210 Combo



Line 6 Spider II 210 Combo

Line 6 has put together a really good recording or stage amp in the Spider II 210 Combo. Building on the best-selling Spider, Spider II to deliver 12 unique amp models, 7 different effects with 3 available simultaneously and easily tweakable using the Smart FX knob. Delay times can be adjusted via tap tempo. Features custom Celestion speakers, a front-panel tuner, spring and room reverb, and a headphone out. The 210 features 120W of power, 2 - 10" Celestion speakers, 12 amp models, 7 effects with 3 available simultaneously, tap tempo, spring and room reverb, and a headphone out.

Line 6 Spider II 210 Combo


Line 6 Spider II 210 Combo


Line 6 Spider II 210 Combo



Line 6 Spider II 210 Combo

Line 6 has put together a really good recording or stage amp in the Spider II 210 Combo. Building on the best-selling Spider, Spider II to deliver 12 unique amp models, 7 different effects with 3 available simultaneously and easily tweakable using the Smart FX knob. Delay times can be adjusted via tap tempo. Features custom Celestion speakers, a front-panel tuner, spring and room reverb, and a headphone out. The 210 features 120W of power, 2 - 10" Celestion speakers, 12 amp models, 7 effects with 3 available simultaneously, tap tempo, spring and room reverb, and a headphone out.

M-Audio Black Box Guitar Performance/Recording System


M-Audio Black Box Guitar Performance/Recording System


M-Audio Black Box Guitar Performance/Recording System



M-Audio Black Box Guitar Performance/Recording System

Co-developed by M-Audio and Roger Linn Design, the M-Audio Black Box Guitar Performance/Recording System is the first creative tool for guitarists that combines amp modeling, powerful beat-synced guitar effects, and electronic drums with an audio interface for computer-based recording. Based on AdrenaLinn II technology, the Black Box can be used as a standalone amp-modeling and effects unit featuring spot-on models of 12 of the greatest guitar amps of all time. 99 drum patterns with tap tempo make it easy to try out different grooves and tempos. IMPORTANT NOTE: To get the Reloaded firmware update from M-Audio and get even more amp models and effects for your Black Box, go to this link. The Reloaded update ups the creativity factor of your Black Box by giving you a total of 40 amp models and 121 effects to use.The Black Box also incorporates tons of inspiring unique effects that automatically beat-sync to your drum patterns. A built-in microphone preamp is also included for recording and processing vocals and acoustic instruments. One simple USB connection sends your output to your favorite computer-based recording software and syncs the Black Box's drums and effects to your tracks. The Black Box gives you killer tone, groundbreaking effects, huge beats, and easy recording all in a single, easy-to-use package.The Black Box tears it up with 12 virtual amp models based on AdrenaLinn technology that span the...

Ibanez IJV50 JamPack Quick Start


Ibanez IJV50 JamPack Quick Start Natural


Ibanez IJV50 JamPack Quick Start Natural



Ibanez IJV50 JamPack Quick Start Natural

One of the premier names in guitar manufacture, Ibanez has produced the Ibanez IJV50 JamPack Quick Start, a fantastically low-priced package with everything for the beginning guitarist. The V50 natural-finish acoustic guitar features a spruce top for fantastic tone. The package also includes an accurate electronic tuner, gig bag, guitar strap, and accessory pouch.

Sunday, September 03, 2006

Epiphone Masterbilt Clearance


Win a Yamaha TRB1005 5-String Electric Bass

Win a Yamaha TRB1005 5-String Electric Bass


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This week we're giving away a Yamaha TRB1005 5-String Electric Bass. Sign up for our weekly newsletter and you'll be automatically entered to win!

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